Born Free Leap'n Lions RV Club Info & Discussion Forum

I have a '99 24 ft. Born Free, and love boondocking (and hate the chronic worry about battery status and generator noise). Just recently, wandering around Quartzsite, I saw someone with a tow-behind open trailer which had solar panels inside, and a sign "solar panels for sale". The ones he had in the trailer were large, Kyocera 187 watt's, 59.2 x 39 inches. He's getting some smaller ones, but after a lot of thought I came up with a "brainstorm".

The rails for the luggage (?) roof rack are about 59 inches apart. I could simply mount the panels right on the roof rack, pushed forward to minimize wind from underneath by hugging the A/C cover. For the gap on the sides of the a/c unit, I would install aluminum deflectors sealed to the roof and attached to the panel.

Has anyone heard of this being done, results, concerns, opinions? I like to think "out of the box", but I also don't want to look in my rear view mirror and see my roof rack with solar panel attached crashing into someone behind me.

Thanks in advance!
Stan F.

1) I saw ads for companies that have flexible solar panels that would fit the front part of the roof.
2) I saw a guy that boondocks a lot, he mounted the solar panels on the driverside of the his BF, the panels could flip out horizontal, or be removed and mounted on the ground.
Just some thoughts.

This may not be helpful but I pass it along for info.

http://www.andybaird.com/travels/skylar ... frenzy.htm

I see no problem with fastening a solar panel to the roof rack. I think installing a deflector would not be needed. With all the space below the panel there would be no great pressure buildup.

Install the panel so that there are no shadows cast on it from things such as the air conditioner and TV antenna. Just a small shadow can diminish the output greatly.

Typical panels are available in either 12 volt or 24 volt. If you go with a 12 volt panel you can use a PWM charge controller. If the panel is 24 volt you will need an MPPT controller which costs much more than PWM.

Mount the controller inside the coach as close to the batteries as possible.

Don't skimp on wire. The larger the better.

Here's some links for sites with helpful info:

http://www.jackdanmayer.com/rv_electrical_and_solar.htm
https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/the ... -puzzle-2/
http://rvroadtrip.us/library/solar_install.php

Solar Blvd. usually has great prices on panels: http://www.solarblvd.com/
Also Sun Electronics: http://sunelec.com/index.php

I opted to install my panels on the side of my coach. If the side is facing the sun, they can be left in place, or they can be removed and set out in the sun using an extension cable. Here's some photos:

Tomzleapin:

Thanks for the photos and encouragement. The largest panel I'm putting on the roof rack is a Kyocera kc187G (187 watts, 26v). I also have room for 2 more panels, 2 x 4 ft ($75 ea used). I'm tempted to stay with just the large one for now, since it seems to be quite a bit of wattage by itself. Your opinion?

Also, how did you get the wire from the roof to near the battery, and what guage wire did you use? That part might be trickier than finding a location for the panel.

If I go with the additional 2 - 75 watt panels, one would have to be mounted in front of the batwing, with about 1 1/2 inches sticking over the cab/coach joint. Other than aesthetics, what's your opinion?

At home I have some long stainless piano hinges, which would be ideal for making the setup you've got. Unfortunately, that's 2500 miles away.

Thanks again for the feedback

Stan F.

My two panels total 260 watts and that works well for me. I'm using #10 wire. I mounted a small junction box on the side of my coach behind the larger panel. This comes through into the cabinet where my microwave is. The wires run across the upper cabinets then come down to the floor behind the converter where I mounted the charge controller. The output of the controller connects to the 12 volt output of the converter. Since you are mounting your panel on the roof, the best place to come down would be through the refrigerator vent. You could then come across the ceiling where the roll bar is.

The Kyocera panel you have is rated at 26.1 Vmp (Maximum Power Voltage). You will definitely need an MPPT charge controller. You don't say what voltage the 75 watt panels are. If they are 12 volt panels you could connect two panels in series to essentially make one 24 volt panel. A typical 24 volt panel has a Vmp of 30 volts. This is probably close enough to the Kyocera's 26.1 volts so you could parallel it with the other two panels.

Some more photos:

Thanks again, especially for the idea of how to run the cables.

Although I can fit the two 75's, I question their necessity. Did you put in all you panels at once, or find you needed more Amps and added? Would you add the two 75's, and why?

Stan F.

The two 75's are 12 volt.

I started with one 125 watt and the following year added an 80 watt. As long as there was sunshine I was okay with just one. During times of less than ideal weather having more watts allows you go longer before having to run the generator.

The 125 watt panel weighs 28 lbs. and was difficult to hang back onto the side of the coach. Last year I purchased a flexible 180 watt panel that weighed 7 pounds. I had to make a frame for it so that brought the weight up to 12 lbs. Makes it much easier to handle.

Tom:

Panel is up!! The Kyocera KC187g fits EXACTLY on top of the rear luggage rack. Now the challenge is getting the wire into the PD4655 battery wire area. You mentioned using the refrigerator vent. I can see the latter part of the wire route: across under the roll bar cover, over the top of the cabinet and down the rectangular chase to the right of the window.

How do you get the wire from the refrigerator vent into the top right cabinet by the fridge?

Thanks in advance, and I hope I'm not being a pain with all the questions.

Stan F.

If your '99 is like my '05, you will have to remove a divider on the right side of the cabinet. This will give you access to some wiring in that area. On the roof remove the refrigerator vent cover. The TV antenna coax should come down into the same cabinet next to the fridge. Follow the coax with your wires down into the cabinet and then across the ceiling into the kitchen cabinets.

Hi Tom,

Sometime we'd love to see what you did. We live by Forest Lake. Our son lives in New Hope. Maybe spring we could get together and see your panel set up.

Jo and Curt

I'm hanging out in south Florida until the end of April. I will be going to the the factory rally in June. If you will be going, we could get together then. If you want to meet earlier that would be fine too.

We'll see you at the Rally...

Thanks

Hi Tom!

The right side of my cabinet just has the panel that is part of the refrigerator enclosure. I opted to route the wire down the tank vent pipe and behind the kitchen counter.

Stan F.