Born Free Leap'n Lions RV Club Info & Discussion Forum

Has anyone installed the Golf Cart type 6 volt batteries to replace the two 12 volt batteries? In checking the dimensions of the the Golf Cart batteries, they appear to be a bit larger than the Series 27 12 volt type.
I haven't measured my battery tray yet, but wondered if anyone has done this replacement. I don't recall seeing any reference to this on this forum. Thanks!

Dallas,

It has been done but per the picture the owner had to remove the door frame and replace it after installing the batteries. This is not my coach but if you need to talk to the owner send me an email.

It also looks like he eliminated the slide-out battery tray (no doubt it would be useless in this application). Unless you can get at these batteries from inside the coach, its unlikely you'll ever be checking the electrolyte level. Those pictured appear to be gel, so checking the electrolyte level may not be applicable on those. But, lose one of the batteries to an internal short (or some other reason), and you're left with only 6 volts, not good for even starting the generator or jumping the chassis battery. If you are running two 12V batteries and one goes down, at least you still have one to start the generator, run the 12-volt coach systems, and jump a dead coach battery, if necessary. What are the advantages of using 6V batteries supposed to be?

Bill

We asked the factory to install 2 sixes in series when we bought our 2005. I'm not sure of the group type # (size) but they do fit nicely in the BF standard pull out battery tray.

Differences in materials and individual battery chemistry make slight differences between any 2 batteries in parallel that will cause them to charge and discharge at different rates creating internal currents flowing between the 2 batteries. When the mismatches becomes too great the currents can degrade or cause premature failure of the batteries.

2 six volt batteries are connected in series eliminating self leveling currents from cell to cell.

Also, if you lose a 12V battery it's true you can continue on one (unless that shorted cell discharges the remaining good battery before you notice). And when you replace the bad battery you will likely have to replace the good battery too to maintain a close match between the 2 12v batteries connected in parallel. Replacing one of your 2 six volt batteries isn't a problem.

Mike

That photo is a photo of my batteries. You only see two batteries in the photo but there are four 6 volt gel. Because they are gel, do not have to ever check fluid levels. They were installed over 3 years ago. I have had no problems.

bechlumber wrote: That photo is a photo of my batteries. You only see two batteries in the photo but there are four 6 volt gel. Because they are gel, do not have to ever check fluid levels. They were installed over 3 years ago. I have had no problems.

Jeff, I thought I recognized your hand in that photo.

Did you do anything to your charging system (both chassis alternator and house converter/inverter) to ensure that you won't have a problem with overcharging those gels?

See you in Colorado.

Bill

I installed a prosine inverter/charger. When I am plugged in to power. it monitors the current coming into the coach. It will shut off the current when it is not good. It monitors amps & volts coming & going.

Sounds like you've got the bases covered when you are hooked up to shore power. Howz about when you are driving down the road for hours on end and your chassis alternator is slamming a constant 14.5 volts into your house batteries? Do you turn off the house battery disconnect switch after the gel batteries are fully charged?

Bill

I replaced the 12 volt with two 6 volt Trojan batteries. No adjustments need, and very glad I made the change. The batteries are better equiped to take deep discharges and recover well.

Bill,

I think the alternator is tied into my inverter/charger monitor. When I have charged the batteries in a campground - not moving, the amps going through the charging systems will decrease as the batteries get full.

Your chassis alternator is automatically regulated and will not overcharge your coach batteries.

An update. I installed two Trojan T-105 golf cart type batteries. It was made easier (no change to the wiring to extend either positive or negative terminals) by using the new style battery tray from BF. The new tray allowed me to position the long side of the batteries perpendicular to the vehicle as opposed to the old style that positions the long side parallel to the vehicle. I placed the right hand battery with the positive terminal to the rear, and the left hand battery with the negative terminal to the rear. This allowed me to connect each just like the 12 volt rear battery connects. I used one of the cables that connects the two 12 volt batteries to each other to connect the outside negative (right) and positive (left) terminals of the golf cart batteries together to form the series. I did need to fashion a spacer to hold the batteries in place as the golf cart type have a smaller footprint than the 12 volt.

How easily can you inspect and, if needed, add water to the batteries when the long side is perpendicular to the direction of travel. I looked at some 6Volt golf cart batteries a while ago and didn't buy them because I was worried about it. But I have the old type battery drawer on my Born Free. Thanks.. Larry

Each battery is easily accessible. With only three cells in each, you have half as many to check! In my case I had to place the batteries nearest the back of the tray because I did not have any slack in the + and - cables. This may be because earlier I had to have a new converter and wiring installed when my wiring burned to a crisp. I may have less slack than an original installation. There is a three inch gap on the front of the battery tray that I had to fashion a spacer to fill to hold the batteries in place. If you had the cable slack, you could place the spacer on the back side which would move the batteries toward the front of the tray making for even better access. I would post a photo, but I recently destroyed by accident my digital camera!

With regard to the cabling when changing a battery installation, here is a description of the procedure used when replacing our 12 volt coach batteries with two Trojan T-105, 6 volt batteries. I was concerned that the cables were not flexible enough for the frequent moving associated with checking the water after I had a lug work off a cable end. I installed heavy duty terminal points available from West Marine on the fixed sides of the battery compartment, and connected the factory cables to those terminals (positive on one side and negative on the other). Next, extension cables were made from extra flexible welding cable (it's available in red and black), and run from the fixed terminal points to the battery terminals. This takes the flexing load off the stiffer, factory installed cables and will help in the case of your cables having been shortened. I used one of the original jumpers between batteries to connect the batteries together in series.

The terminal points are really just single, 5/16" OR 3/8" studs on an insulated base for bolting to a surface. They were fastened securely with a metal backing plate and lock nuts as I certainly didn't want them flopping loose in the battery compartment. The cables are #2 AWG copper and require appropriate lugs and a crimping tool. While I already had a heavy duty crimper, they are pretty expensive, and I noticed that West Marine has a crimping die that is operated by striking with a hammer. It's cheaper, but not as easily used. I ordered short lengths of cable and lugs from "Northern Arizona Wind & Sun" at this site: <http://www.windsun.com/>. While this isn't an essential modification, it has worked well, and I no longer worry about over-flexing my cables.