Born Free Leap'n Lions RV Club

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 8:52 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2007 8:41 pm
Posts: 1
Location: Pierre, SD
I am looking at a 1998 24' with a 350 chassis. I believe in 1999 they changed to 450 chassis was this because the 350 was to light or was there other problems. I am told the unit has a V10 what kind of mileage should I be able to expect driving 60-65 average road not a lot of hills.
On the 1998 is there any particular things I should check on the unit.


 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 8:01 am 

Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 9:22 pm
Posts: 14
Location: Knoxville TN USA
Curtis -

I recently bought a 1997 24RB. Yes the biggest difference/problem is the 350 vs 450 load rating. I'm pretty well maxed out with just the essentials. But then again you will probably get a much better price, which for me as a testing the water entry point made it more palatable.

Look for the usual things you'd look for in a used car. Engine, transmission, brakes, ball joints, shocks, tires, etc. On tires I'd plan on a new set UNLESS you know the history of the set on yours. Mine were old and had sat in a barn for a while so I planned on new Michelins immediately. Especially with you running so close to load rating it doesn't pay to skimp on tires.

In the coach look for water leaks, stains, etc. especially around the cab over window.

One thing I found, and had to address, hot water heater causing pressure leaks. Start off with a fully pressurized cold water system, then turn on the hot water heater but DON'T open any faucets, wait 15-20 minutes for it to heat up and then look around and under all faucets and toilet. If you find a little water you'll need some plumbing work. Not much just a hassle.

Check out refrigerator, generator, exhaust fans, lights, gas/monoxide detectors, etc.

Of course the usual visual inspection for rust, cracks in the fiberglass, glass, etc.

I pulled a carfax and confirmed that it had only one owner and after getting the original invoice confirmed they'd had an 1987 for ten years before that so I felt they'd treated it well.

On mileage we've not been able to get out and about much yet and we live in the mountains so our short trips involve climbing. I've installed a monitoring system that plugs into the OBDC connector and gives me all the mileage and gauge info. We're getting 10+ around here and hope to get 12-13 if we can ever find flat country.

My mechanic did a full going over and fixed all my problems after I got it. I had rusted ball joints and front brakes so I had a little bit of expense but I'm still happy with the total cost. He did find metal in the transmission and he and I are keeping an eye on it but don't see any signs of slippage even here in the mountains so it could have been there since day one.

Good luck,


1997 24RB President
"The Lion & The Lamb"

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 3:17 pm 
We purchased a new 1998 24 ft RSB at the factory in January, 1998. The 450 chassis was an option (about $2000) and since we did not plan to tow we elected to go with the 350 chassis.
We have never worried about the load rating and have had no problems, even though I custom mounted a spare tire on the back bumper, carry a bike rack with two bikes, and have a stainless stee tube "cage" on top for the Nascar races. We ran the load range D tires as required for the 350 chassis for 98000 miles where we had our first problem, a thread separation on a tire with 18,000 miles. The failure was more like the failure of a recapped tire.
At that time we elected to go to load range E tires and also install metal valve stems from Borg Tire Supply.

I believe the 350 chassis can meet your needs. I suspect we are over the load limit but have never had any problems. There is some margin of safety in the manufactuers numbers. We always leave home with a full water tank, a full propane tank, a full gas tank, and empty holding tanks. We put whatever we need for the trip in the motorhome. I think it rides well and travels well.

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