Anybody "scrape bottom" of BF going in & out o

stevek · Post by **stevek** » Mon Sep 02, 2013 7:52 pm

In and out of DRIVEWAY.
If so, what did you do?
Any theories or ideas? Thanks..

whemme · Post by **whemme** » Mon Sep 02, 2013 8:44 pm

Whenever there is a sizable dip involved with entering or departing any driveway, it is best to cross the dip at as close to a 45 degree angle as possible and always drive thru the dip very slowly. The roller wheels mounted under your rear bumper will prevent damage to the rear of the coach and especially to the black and gray tanks if you do this.

If the dips are too severe, then don't entry such a driveway.

bcope01 · Post by **bcope01** » Mon Sep 02, 2013 9:04 pm

This is not unique to Born Free motor coaches. As Bill says, apppoach at a 45 degree angle and proceed s-l-o-w-l-y.

Bill

mockturtle · Post by **mockturtle** » Mon Sep 02, 2013 9:39 pm

Yep, my drag wheels get used at times.

stevek · Post by **stevek** » Mon Sep 02, 2013 9:52 pm

Has anybody made some sort of a removable ramp, that you can lay it in the gutter for example and remove it after you pulled into your driveway?
Would something like that work?

Also what about moving the skid wheels? or smaller Dia.?
Like closer to the rear axle for example.
Has anybody done that?

Virgil and Anne Dutton · Mon Sep 02, 2013 10:02 pm

Depending on the size and shape of the gutter, maybe just laying some boards parallel to the curb would fill it in enough to make it less of a dip.

Virgil

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Mon Sep 02, 2013 10:14 pm

At our home in Arizona I place (2) 2X4's next to each other across the driveway entrance. Works well.

Rob and Joan
2003 24RB

Post by **bfadmin** » Mon Sep 02, 2013 10:46 pm

stevek wrote:Has anybody made some sort of a removable ramp, that you can lay it in the gutter for example and remove it after you pulled into your driveway?
Would something like that work?

Also what about moving the skid wheels? or smaller Dia.?
Like closer to the rear axle for example.
Has anybody done that?

Steve,

You want the skid wheels where there are and if you reduce the diameter then the whole purpose of the skid wheels would be compromised. Also, if moving them closer to the rear axle was a good idea then moving them right next to the axle should be even a better idea. I don't think so. Then they would never contact the ground at all preventing the rear end or tanks from contacting the ground.

Anything like 2 x 12 boards that you could put in the bottom of the dip to make the crossing more flat would help your problem of getting into your driveway with out damage. If the drag wheels are hitting way before you even get to the bottom of the dip your are risking damage to your coach. Your coach was built with frame extensions welded onto the Ford cutaway frame to extend the frame so that the 24', 26' or 27' body could be supported by that extended frame. If you go thru a severe dip such that the drag wheels contact the ground several feet before the rear wheels get to the bottom of the dip, then a great amount of force is exerted upward on the frame extensions possibly causing them to bend and cause damage to your fiberglass body shell in the rear of your coach.

Virgil may have his own opinion on this issue.

Virgil and Anne Dutton · Mon Sep 02, 2013 11:36 pm

I agree with the above post. Those drag wheels are placed pretty much at the optimum position. They are there to protect the rear bumper and the tanks which are below the level of the bumper. Moving them forward would probably lessen their function. If it is primarily at your driveway where you are having the problem, it seems that placing wooden boards or planks there would be the simplest solution. You don't have to make it level with the street; just use enough to lessen, or eliminate, your drag.
Incidentally; I have worked with Ford Engineering in the past to lengthen both E and F Series frames , as mentioned above, for shuttle busses.

stevek · Post by **stevek** » Tue Sep 03, 2013 6:50 am

thanks everybody..
So, sounds like some sort of "wood" in the gutter: to lessen the slope, is the best option.

lafons · Post by **lafons** » Tue Sep 03, 2013 11:39 am

Concert works well also!

Virgil and Anne Dutton · Tue Sep 03, 2013 12:57 pm

Concrete would probably be the best permanent solution except cities and other government agencies frown and get pretty upset at changing the drainage etc. of "their" curbs and gutters. I know this from first hand experience.

Virgil

John S. · Post by **John S.** » Thu Sep 05, 2013 9:00 am

Usually I hit on some fuel stations driveways. Not a huge amount but know there is an overhang back there. I used to hit with the built for two as well but not as often.

shezonit · Post by **shezonit** » Wed Sep 11, 2013 4:04 pm

Draggin' is scary. My previous RV was a Class B with a motorcycle mounted on the back. Even with air bags, that rail would scrape in almost every gas station I used. Very scary, and I used to scrape the heads off bolts, too. So I was pleased to see the drag rollers on the BF.

However, I am now adding to the frame in order to carry said motorcycle. I hope I don't have the dragging problem even worse- a lot more overhang on this RSB than on my Class B. :-0

Anyone carrying a motorcycle/ scooter on their E350 chassis? I'm going to start a thread if not.

whemme · Post by **whemme** » Wed Sep 11, 2013 9:07 pm

Be careful about carrying a motorcycle on an extended frame mount on the rear of your Born Free. You probably would exceed both the weight carrying rating of both your rear dual tires and the rear axle.

A 600 lb motorcycle mounted there could add 900 lb weight to the rear axle and remove 300 lbs from the front axle.