? What Did You Do To Your Born Free Today?

[bcope01]

Bonnie, I'd like to see pics of your Eternabond repairs.

Thanks, Bill

[Bonnie McDowell]

I'll take a pic of the Fantastic Fan with Eternabond later this week, but here is my Cabover Window with Eternabond.

[bcope01]

Professional looking Bonnie, both the Smart Tile and Eternabond! If I had a leaking cabover window, I'd definitely consider the Eternabond.

Bill

[Bonnie McDowell]

RE: Peel 'n stick tiles from Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.

I would expect these particular tiles' peel 'n stick capabilities may be rather limited.

The rigors of temperature swings and cycles, coupled with the constant vehicle vibrations while driving, will see to that.

Unless, the glass tiles are secured with either a tenacious adhesive or glue to the unknown sub-surface material.

I would be very surprised if Born Free went to the trouble of researching the longest lasting tile methods of installation regards these glass tile boards.

I would be very interested in learning their installation materials and method chosen for their new units, in utilizing these glass tile boards.

The Smart Tiles are very thin and light, less than 1/16 inch thick. They give the look of glass, but are really just gel-filled plastic. When I researched, I found a lot of reports in RV forums of them being used in RVs, and just now found this Q&A from their website:

Q: I am considering these to put in a used RV -- how hot before they fall off the wall? It sits in the sun {like a car would} and my concern they may come off. Are they okay to do that?

A: Hello, thanks for your interest in Smart Tiles. When you install the Smart Tiles, make sure the temperature is not below 65 F and not over 95 F. After a 48 hours period, the peel and stick tiles will be completely welded to the surface and it will be never too hot for them and will not fall off the wall. They resist to the heat and are ideal for RV. Please do not hesitate to contact us with any questions.

I'm not anticipating any problem, but I'll keep you posted if I do!

Bonnie

[Bonnie McDowell]

Professional looking Bonnie, both the Smart Tile and Eternabond! If I had a leaking cabover window, I'd definitely consider the Eternabond.

Bill

Thanks. I know a lot of people think the Eternabond ruins the appearance. I was going to do it regardless, because "handsome is as handsome does" and a wet bunk is not good! And with white tape on a white motorhome, I think it looks fine as long as you take your time and apply it neatly.

I was very happy with the kitchen backsplash, and I'm now thinking of dressing up the bathroom with this Smart Tile:

http://www.thesmarttiles.com/en_us/tiles/minimo-roca/

Bonnie

[rhyde]

Thank-you Bonnie! You picture has convinced me to use Eternabond for my leaking cab-over window. Mine is a 1997 which has the area around the window painted black, so I'll use the black tape. Did you use the 4 inch wide tape or the 2 inch? Do you have any tips to offer on the application process?

[CuJo's Pride]

Hi Bonnie, sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. We have been planning my great aunts 90th birthday party. It was not difficult removing the old carpet. Only held down with some staples. We left the old vinyl.. Curt made a transition from old vinyl to the flooring under the carpet. It worked great and saved a lot of time. The new planks went in pretty easy. The cutouts were the most time consuming. We cut around the captains chair bases but we have decided to remove at least one captain chair. We loved the extra space and there's just 2 of us so we won't miss the chair. We are so happy with the way it turned out. We left the carpet in the cab area and there's a good chance that will be coming out as well. The vinyl is so easy to take care of and it looks wonderful.. If you need any advice PM us and we'll help out. Good luck.it's worth the effort..

Jo

[stevek]

If anyone is curious about Smart Tile, you can order a sample for $2.00 CA.
Smart Tile is a Canadian Company.
Order from here..
https://www.thesmarttiles.com/en/

Plus Home Depot and Lowes sell them.
But by special order only I think.
I have yet to see the actual sheet of tiles in any stores.
And I did order a sample some time ago, but never followed thru with the project.

[Bonnie McDowell]

Thank-you Bonnie! You picture has convinced me to use Eternabond for my leaking cab-over window. Mine is a 1997 which has the area around the window painted black, so I'll use the black tape. Did you use the 4 inch wide tape or the 2 inch? Do you have any tips to offer on the application process?

I used the 4 inch tape.

Before you begin, there is a special cleaner for the surface that is made by the Eternabond company. You also need to buy a heavy steel roller they make, unless you already have one.

Draw a box with marker on the fiberglass all the way around the window where you want the outer edge of the tape pieces to be. Be very careful that the lines are equidistant from the edge of the window for the entire length of each side.

Use the box you have drawn to measure the exact length you need for each strip, and precut the pieces. The two side pieces can be cut a little shorter (say 3/8 - 1/2 inch) than your calculation because they will be under the top piece, and if they are a little too long the top edge won't have that nice even edge across the top. The same is true of the bottom piece because the ends of that piece will lie under the side pieces (I started with the bottom edge of the window, so that the side pieces would overlap that and then the final, top, piece would overlap the tops of two side pieces.)

From this point on, you really need 2 people. Peel back just an inch or so of the backing for the bottom piece, and make a sharp crease in the backing. One person lines up the part of the long piece of the tape that still has backing against the line you have made, while the other person is careful to hold the end with exposed adhesive away from the surface (this stuff is REALLY sticky). If you try to do the lining up just at the beginning end, and are a tiny bit off, it will be way off by the time you get to the other end. But by lining of a long segment along the middle of the window, you will be much more accurate. You can then shift the far end of the tape (opposite the end you have peeled back) almost up against the line that is perpendicular to the bottom line (if you made the piece 1/2 inch shorter than the calculation, then have the back edge in about 1/4 inch from the line). Once the positioner person has everything lined up, you stick down the exposed end. You have to play with fitting it around the black frame around the window. Proceed slowly by peeling back the backing a little at a time and use finger pressure to stick the tape and work it around the raised. window frame. Use the roller once you have the whole piece in position. Then you do each of the side pieces the same way. I started at the bottom and worked up with these, because the bottom edge is the one that has line up with the bottom piece (the top edge will be under the top piece, which is why you make it shorter than it needs to be). Finish with the piece along the top edge.

The hardest thing is that you are in an awkward position. I was working from the roof leaning down, and the other person was standing on the hood of the truck.

Good luck. I was very happy with how it came out, and love not worrying about when the caulking around the window is going to give out and need to be replaced. The cantilever effect of the cabover means that there probably is more movement and flexion of the caulk there than elsewhere. It's no wonder that cabover windows were plagued by leaks.

[Bonnie McDowell]

We left the old vinyl.. Curt made a transition from old vinyl to the flooring under the carpet. It worked great and saved a lot of time. The new planks went in pretty easy.

Jo

Jo,
Can you post a picture of the finished product? And how did you transition over the old vinyl to keep the floor level?
I had decided against doing the vinyl planks I wanted after reading about how hard it was to take out the captain's chairs. Good to know that you just worked around them. It certainly would be easier to keep clean at the beach with dogs! Maybe I will make this next year's project.
Bonnie

[rhyde]

Thank-you Bonnie! You picture has convinced me to use Eternabond for my leaking cab-over window. Mine is a 1997 which has the area around the window painted black, so I'll use the black tape. Did you use the 4 inch wide tape or the 2 inch? Do you have any tips to offer on the application process?

I used the 4 inch tape.

Before you begin, there is a special cleaner for the surface that is made by the Eternabond company. You also need to buy a heavy steel roller they make, unless you already have one.

Draw a box with marker on the fiberglass all the way around the window where you want the outer edge of the tape pieces to be. Be very careful that the lines are equidistant from the edge of the window for the entire length of each side.

Use the box you have drawn to measure the exact length you need for each strip, and precut the pieces. The two side pieces can be cut a little shorter (say 3/8 - 1/2 inch) than your calculation because they will be under the top piece, and if they are a little too long the top edge won't have that nice even edge across the top. The same is true of the bottom piece because the ends of that piece will lie under the side pieces (I started with the bottom edge of the window, so that the side pieces would overlap that and then the final, top, piece would overlap the tops of two side pieces.)

From this point on, you really need 2 people. Peel back just an inch or so of the backing for the bottom piece, and make a sharp crease in the backing. One person lines up the part of the long piece of the tape that still has backing against the line you have made, while the other person is careful to hold the end with exposed adhesive away from the surface (this stuff is REALLY sticky). If you try to do the lining up just at the beginning end, and are a tiny bit off, it will be way off by the time you get to the other end. But by lining of a long segment along the middle of the window, you will be much more accurate. You can then shift the far end of the tape (opposite the end you have peeled back) almost up against the line that is perpendicular to the bottom line (if you made the piece 1/2 inch shorter than the calculation, then have the back edge in about 1/4 inch from the line). Once the positioner person has everything lined up, you stick down the exposed end. You have to play with fitting it around the black frame around the window. Proceed slowly by peeling back the backing a little at a time and use finger pressure to stick the tape and work it around the raised. window frame. Use the roller once you have the whole piece in position. Then you do each of the side pieces the same way. I started at the bottom and worked up with these, because the bottom edge is the one that has line up with the bottom piece (the top edge will be under the top piece, which is why you make it shorter than it needs to be). Finish with the piece along the top edge.

The hardest thing is that you are in an awkward position. I was working from the roof leaning down, and the other person was standing on the hood of the truck.

Good luck. I was very happy with how it came out, and love not worrying about when the caulking around the window is going to give out and need to be replaced. The cantilever effect of the cabover means that there probably is more movement and flexion of the caulk there than elsewhere. It's no wonder that cabover windows were plagued by leaks.

Thanks Bonnie! Great description of your process. I retire at the end of the month so will wait until the to tackle this.

[Bonnie McDowell]

I'll take a pic of the Fantastic Fan with Eternabond later this week, but here is my Cabover Window with Eternabond.

Here is the pictue of the Fantastic Fan with Eternabond, and a top down view of the cabover window:

[Bonnie McDowell]

Today's project was washing the awning, and measuring the bathroom for Smart Tile.

[David and Susan Bratt]

I got everything out of the locked storage and back in place. The Hampton Inn let us load up with water. And everything is functioning again!!

[rhyde]

We just returned this morning from a 2-day trip thru the White Mountains. It was our 2nd short trip of the season as well as our 2nd trip in the "new to us" BF. Had a great time. Spent Friday night at Sebago Lake State Park in Naples, ME. Saturday we travelled up thru Evans Notch on the Maine side of the border and back down thru Pinkham Notch on the New Hampshire side. We spent last night back at Sebago Lake State Park, and then back home this morning.
We only had a couple minor issues. The drawer under the sofa that kept opening while driving so I replaced it with a spare I had ordered from BF. I need to work on the freezer door as it keeps popping open as well. If someone has some advice on that it would be appreciated.