Norcold LP/AC/DC refrigerator "cool" not cold?

[KevinVT]

Hi folks,

We are on our first long trip in our 2001 BornFree 24' RB. So far not a wonderful start, but we are staying positive and working issues as they come up. As always searching the forums has been great.

One issue we are having is our refrigerator (set to 9) appears cool (in the 50's) not cold.
We drove about 10 hours today, so it should have been on DC I think, Now it is on LP. I will check again in the morning to see if LP cools it much better.

I wanted to see if there is something I am missing?

As for the other issues - we have blown 2 tires in 3 days, both rear inner tires - one on each side. I think they were COOPER DISCOVERER H-T TIRES (2 years old with 10k miles on them). After doing some research I think these might be too light duty for us? Not sure why the owners before us put 6 of these on if they are not the correct weight rating. I might just consider getting some new tires tomorrow - any suggestions?

Thanks!

--Kevin

[bigdipper]

Kevin,
Check refrigerator stack and air outlet area for obstructions. I would run frig on propane when not hooked up to 110. The 12 V option was always weak on my 2001 which may have had same frig.
Tires must be load rating E and run them at 75-80 psi cold until you weigh the vehicle. Replacement dual tires must be matched.
Hope this helps.
Ralph

[whemme]

Kevin,

According to the Cooper Discoverer H/T Tire chart copied below, the maximum weight that the size P225/785R16 tire size is rated for is only 1874 lbs - way less than was is required for your Born Free coach. The proper tire for your coach is the LT225/75R16E where the E stands for the weight rating of this tire which is 2680 lbs when used in the front of the coach and 2470 lbs when used as one of the duals in the rear of the coach.

No wonder you suffered those two blowouts!

My recommendation would be to replace all 6 tires either with Firestone Transforce HT tires in size LT225/75R16E (which I personally recommend) or Michelin LTX tires in that same size.

[Roger H]

Bill covered the tires nicely...

Ralph gave good advice on the refrigerator. The only thing I can add is that DC will only approximately hold the temp of the fridge, it doesn't have enough amperage to make the heating element hot enough to actually cool it. An ammonia-absorption fridge (an RV refrigerator) can take as long as 12-16 hours to actually cool to refrigerator temps on electricity. Propane will be a few hours less.

Switch it to AC or propane, be patient, and see if it cools properly in a few hours.

[harrisgowing]

Totally agree with Roger, our 2004 refigerator cooled much better on propane, especially in temps in the 70s and over. We rarely used AC in warm weather.

[Brent]

This is to Ralph's response.
Can you give some more details on checking the "refrigerator stack and air outlet"?

Mine is not cooling properly on electric - I'm not sure about propane. It may be age it's a 1999.

Brent

[bigdipper]

Brent,
An obstruction in air flow up and out refrig. vent on roof will not allow frig. to cool properly. You may need a mirror for this, depending on how large your head is! Look up from bottom then go on roof and check for bird nest or whatever around vent. While you are at it, clean dust off the "coils".
Ralph

[Brent]

Ralph
Thank you

I see you switched from an 23RK to the 24. Do you like the room and layout better. I'm in a 23RK now and sooner or later will need to make a change.

[bigdipper]

Brent,
I would have opted for another 23RK if they still made that model. As it turns out, wife is very pleased with 24RB shower so that makes it a winner. Her handi-cap chair fits in there nicely. As a matter of fact the 24RB is sort of for sale, at least I have sign on rear, although we are continuing to use it intensively. Wife's mobility is slipping so sooner or later we will have to quit camping.
Good luck resolving refrig. issue. The Norcold unit used to scare me when it did a defrost, but I got over it. Use a remote thermometer to check temps since opening and closing door to check can be a losing proposition.
Ralph

[Roger H]

This is to Ralph's response.
Can you give some more details on checking the "refrigerator stack and air outlet"?

Mine is not cooling properly on electric - I'm not sure about propane. It may be age it's a 1999.

Brent

Brent, first the obvious: is your coach level (or close to level?) Ammonia absorption refrigerators like level, and the older the fridge is, the more critical it is that it be level. Most likely, though, it's just that your electric element has burned out. Check your coils for rust, and look for a powdery yellow substance on them. If you see rust and powder, your ammonia absorption system has leaked... and the refrigerator needs to be replaced. If you don't see an inordinate amount of rust, then check it on propane. If it cools properly on propane, then it's definitely just the electric element that has failed. If it doesn't cool properly on propane, there could be several other issues... and it's likely time to visit a dealer to see what needs to be done.

I had an '01 23 RK. I thought it was a superb floorplan, I just couldn't make good use of the cabover bed as I'm 6'5" tall, and needed more room up there.

Roger

[M&MAustin]

Ralph & Judy,

Somewhat off-topic, but if your wife's mobility issue is the only reason you are considering giving up RVing, you should know that BF makes Mobility RVs. Ours is a 2013, 26', and it's the only way Matt can travel at all now. He was using an electric scooter when we started, but now uses a (very large) power wheelchair and it still works great for him. We just got back from a 9 day trip to Ruidoso, NM, to celebrate our 30th anniversary.

There is some info on the BF website: http://www.bornfreerv.com/mobility-rv. (We are the folks in the first video.) If you (or anyone else out there in Leap'n Lions land) are interested in more info, we'd be happy to talk with you anytime.

[Brent]

Just replaced the electrical element in the Norcold - cools ver well on AC now.