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LED upgrade

Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 11:37 am
by tomzleapin
I just finished converting all seven of the fluorescent fixtures in my coach to LED. I also did the incandescent closet light. I had done the reading lamps previously.

The fluorescent fixtures each draw 2.3 amps. After the LED upgrade they draw 0.7 amps. I wired up three of the fixtures for High / Low selection.
The incandescent closet fixture draws 1.43 amps and after 0.32 amps.

I purchased LEDs and switches from eBay. The LEDs are available in "White" or "Warm White"

Link >> Warm White LED
Link >> White LED
Link >> DPDT Center Off Switch

The LEDs have a G4 base which are meant to plug into a socket. I made sockets from connectors that I found at a local surplus store. They started out as a 13 pin connector that I cut up into two pins. I used construction adhesive to glue these to the fixture.

The High / Low switching required a bit of head scratching. I had to change out the existing SPST switch for a DPDT center off one. I only did this to three of the fixtures. I have attached the wiring schematic to show how it's done.

The light output from the LEDs is a little less than the fluorescent but is more than enough. I used a light meter app on my phone to check the light output.

The cost to convert each fixture was about $5. I am quite pleased with the outcome. I used the white LEDs but I just ordered a batch of the warm white and will see which I like better.

Here's the results:

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On edit: Corrected photo locations and updated sources

Re: LED upgrade

Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 12:25 pm
by CuJo's Pride
We'd like to do that as well but the cost is what's stopping us right now. Did you find a good deal on the lights?

Re: LED upgrade

Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 12:51 pm
by tomzleapin
Check the links for eBay at the top of my post. I used four LEDs for each fixture at $1.08 each, total $4.32. I bought the connectors at a local surplus store for $0.45 plus tax = $0.49 which I cut into four pieces. Total for each fixture $4.81. For the three fixtures with "High / Low" add another $0.30 for the switch for a total of $5.11. So it cost me a total of $34.57 to do all seven of my fixtures.

Re: LED upgrade

Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 12:54 pm
by CuJo's Pride
Curt's going to check it out. Did you retrofit the reading lights or get new? We're on our way home from Colorado so I was reading to Curt. BTW our son lives in New Hope..

Re: LED upgrade

Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 1:05 pm
by tomzleapin
I had done the reading lamps previously. Here's a link to that project:

http://www.bornfreervclub.org/bulletin_ ... led#p20394

Anybody need the guts from seven fluorescent fixtures?

Re: LED upgrade

Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 8:16 pm
by oliverpsmile
Good job Tom !

I changed only the porch light. The incandescent bulb was burning/darkening the lens.

Re: LED upgrade

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 10:01 am
by stevek
Great info Tom... :D Much Thanks.
I recently upgraded my outside light.
With a G4 COB LED. Not sure what COB stands for? But the latest in LED maybe?

I still need to do my flourescent lights. A harder job for me... :mrgreen:

Re: LED upgrade

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 12:17 pm
by tomzleapin
COB stands Chip On Board. Each LED chip is soldered to the circuit board. If you don't do the "High / Low" the existing switch can be used and most of the existing wire can be reused. If you can't find G4 sockets you could solder wire directly to LED module.

Re: LED upgrade

Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2018 3:02 pm
by rick1949
I just bought 4 - 7 watt LED fluorescents to replace the existing 15 watt fluorescents and haven't heard back from the Shenzhen Green Sun Optoelectric CO concerning their instructions on ballast bypass. Is there a starter that needs bypassing too in my (born free 98 24 ft. rear bathroom) light fixtures? The fluorescent lights they sent are F15T8-18's and they fit. Voltage rating on tube is 85-265 AC. Also is the stock 98 ballast magnetic or electronic? Instructions are pretty clear, but I thought a clarification of this info might be helpful to others. Thanks.

Re: LED upgrade

Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2018 7:20 pm
by tomzleapin
These will not work. They are meant to be installed in a 120 volt AC fixture and need no ballast, thus the reason for bypassing the ballast.

If you intend to use the existing sockets of the fixtures in the Born Free, you need 12 volt DC lamps such as these available at Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Rotat ... ight+bulbs

You will need to bypass or remove the existing 12 volt DC ballast.