Water Heater help

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Ann P

Water Heater help

Post by Ann P »

Recently one night, when I turned on the water heater with the electric switch (since I'm hooked up in a park), the water was cool an hour later. The fresh water tank was sort of low, so I filled it up the next day. I flipped the heater switch again and the light did not come on right away as it has before, so I used the LP instead, which did heat the water. I am wondering if I could have damaged the electrical connection. Could it burn out if not enough water to heat? I plan to call Kim O. Tuesday pm , but wanted to run this by you folks too.

I have never tried to fill the 6 gal. water heater tank when filling the fresh water tank- no one told me about it, and I later discovered the section in the BF manual. (I bought the coach used from a dealer ,with no manuals and not much help) Do you folks fill the water tank and then attempt to fill the heater tank? So I turn on the water pump, and pull a faucet to the hot water side, and wait til I can guess that the WH tank is full ...(says "a steady stream of water") I wish there was a better signal for filling these tanks! "Tanks" for your help.
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whemme
Posts: 2110
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 8:05 pm

Water Heater

Post by whemme »

Yes, before you turn on the water heater, you need to make sure it is full of water. I am not sure, but I don't think the water heaters in our Born Free motorcoaches are equipped with any kind of a safety device that keeps the heaters from burning out if we happen to turn them on with no water in the tank.

Since, I live in the cold country (Iowa), I start the winterization process by first making sure the fresh water, gray water and black water tanks are drained. Then I switch all water heater associated valves to bypass mode and drain the water heater. Then I pump the water lines and sink traps full of pink antifreeze via the 4' adapter hose supplied by Born Free connected directly to the inlet side of the water pump.

The procedure to un-winterize relative to the water heater is as follows. Fill the fresh water tank. Turn on the water pump and then one at a time, open all floor mounted drain valves and one at a time open hot and cold water faucets for the two sinks and the shower to flush out all pink antifreeze from all water lines. Then take the water heater associated valves out of bypass mode. Next us the water pump with a sink hot water faucet turned on to pump the water heater full of fresh water. You will know when the water heater is full of fresh water when the hot water sink faucet runs with a continuous stream without bursts of air also coming out.

I don't know if you are located in cold country and need to do the full winterization procedure or not. But even if you drain just the water heater before periods of extended storage (which you should do), make sure that you pump the water heater back full of fresh water before turning the heater on!
Bill Hemme - Spencer, Iowa
E-mail: whemme@earthlink.net
2002 Born Free (Ford E-450 V10) 26' RSB
2016 VW Golf GTI - toad
Ann P

Post by Ann P »

Thanks Bill- I thought someone else might be up late. Must tell you that I am hooked up in Arizona , not having to winterize and so on. (come on down when Iowa gets too cold!) Also that there was about one-fourth a tank of fresh water when I tried to do the WH by electric. Thanks for your notes on filling the WH tank. Hope to hear if anyone else has had this situation, and I'll call Kim about it too.
BOB& KATHY GELLER

Post by BOB& KATHY GELLER »

YOU MIGHT WANT TO CHECK YOUR ANODE IN THE WATER HEATER. THIS IS ALARGE BOLT-LIKE FEATURE ON THE REAR FACE OF THE WATER HEATER. EMPTY THE WATER HEATER AND REMOVE THE ANODE-BOLT WITH AN APPROPRIATE SOCKET WRENCH. THE SIZE OF THE HEAD OF THE ANODE ON MY COACH WAS A WEIRD SIZE REQUIRING PURCHASE OF A SIZE HEAD THAT WAS NOT IN MY REGULAR SOCKET SET. THE ANODE ROD IS PART OF THE BOLT HEAD SND EXTENDS ISIX INCHES INTO THE TANK. WHEN NEW THIS ROD IS SMOOTH METAL. IT BECOMES OXIDIZED WITH TIME AND BECOMES POCK MARKED OR SEVERELY ERODED. IT REQUIRES REPLACEMENT EVERY 6 MONTHS TO A YEAR AND IS AVAILABLE AT MOST RV DEALERS FO ABOUT $12. WHEN ERODED IT CAUSES THE ELECTRIC ASPECT OF THE HEATER TO HEAT SLOWLY IF AT ALL, BUT THE PROPANE STILL WORKS

BOB&KATHY
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whemme
Posts: 2110
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 8:05 pm

Atwood vs Suburban Water Heaters

Post by whemme »

Concerning Bob & Kathy's post above, I want to point out that Born Free Motorcoaches were generally equipped with either an Atwood or a Suburban brand water heater. The Atwood units do not need an anode nor is one recommended to be fitted in the after market. The Suburban units do come equipped with anodes and should be replaced on a periodic basis.
Bill Hemme - Spencer, Iowa
E-mail: whemme@earthlink.net
2002 Born Free (Ford E-450 V10) 26' RSB
2016 VW Golf GTI - toad
Ann P

Water Heater help

Post by Ann P »

The postscript: I called Kim at BF and he had already read my post here, so that was a nice surprise. He thought the element for the electric switch might have burned out , but to try it again. I flipped it, waited an hour, and did get some semi-hot water. Not like the truly hot that comes from the LP. I think I'm ok, but will get it all checked out later and also take a look on the Atwood vs. Suburban setup. By the way, it's not always warm in Arizona. I'm 50 mi. from Phoenix and it will be 23 tonight! Brrr...but no snow shoveling.
Trisha

Post by Trisha »

I guess the joke is on the Arizona folks lately.

Here in Minnesota, we've been sitting at highs in the 40s and sometimes 50s, no snow, sunny, I even was sitting outside last week thinking that I felt like I was in San diego. Haha...and you guys have snow!!! I'm watching the weather for places like Arizona and New Mexico and Texas and they're buried down there. Nary a flake here. LOL It was too warm for my fall coat today and I went to the store in SANDALS and a sweatshirt.

Hmm....

The last laugh may be on me but methinks this is all turned around! For once, I'm glad I am grounded.

Trish
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