How many miles do you have on your unit

[John S.]

Well, I have been thinking. I chose the gas unit in my 24 foot so that it woudl use the same fuel for the genset and be easier to fuel up with. Now, I know the diesel is not hard and have a couple of those type units too. But if you go into places like big cities it is harder or much more expensive and dirty to fuel up in the dedicated diesel pumps.

Anyway, I was looking to get an idea of the life span of the V10 in our applications. We are always pulling a load and are near the max for weight. I assume we should be able to go well over 100K but it would be interesting to see how the transmission holds up. I did the calculation when I purchased as well and I could replace the whole drive train one time for the upgrade to a powerstroke.

[grross]

ford uses the same tranny for both v10 and diesel after I believe 2006. With proper maintenance(severe duty) the gas engine should be good for over 200k. We have had both gas and diesel BFs. with the exception of the 7.3 diesel the $ upgrade is not worth the difference. Keep in mind when ford made the 6.0 diesel avail. on the E450 chassis it was detuned significantly compared to the PU diesel.

[John S.]

Thanks, for the info. I knew they detuned it. I had a 99 Powerstroke and loved it in the pickup configuration.

[grross]

Sam you missed the point that 6.0 diesels in a E series chassis are detuned, not the 7.3 in an E series chassis.

[Dan & Riza]

We have 118,000 on ours. Just replaced the fuel pump & it is running strong.

[karls]

Our '98 24 RB has 166,000 now and the motor and transmission run lke new. Most of the milage is on interstates at 75mph towing a 35 foot glider trailer. I baby the transmission by easing off on inclines so it doesn't downshift.

I use Amsoil synthetic oil and change it once a year. The engine uses a quart about every 6,000 miles.

We've had two problems with the engine - a blown out spark plug (all Ford aluminum engines up to 2003 are susceptible to this. BF started using Ford in 1996) and corroded exhaust manifold studs requiring total replacement ($1,100).

I try to "exercise" the machine every couple weeks in the winter by giving it a thorough warm up drive of 20 miles or so. Short trips with cool shutdowns (or just idling) are bad for motors as that leaves condensed water inside the block to cause corrosion of various and sundry critical parts.

All in all I'm very pleased with the V-10 engine. And my hat is off to the Ford engineers who designed the engine cooling system. Pulling a trailer up hills in 110 degree weather with the A/C going full blast and no sign of overheating is amazing to me.

[Steve]

We have a 2005 24RB and run Redline synthetic oil in the engine and transmission. I change the oil (engine) once a year or every 15K miles whichever comes first and am using 5W-40 to replace the (in my opinion) to light 20W that is the mfg suggested (for 1/10mile better mileage). I do change out the oil filter every 6K miles and use the Mobil 1 filter, M210 (I think). I'm also using Redline oil in my gen-set.
Steve

http://www.redlineoil.com/

http://www.getahelmet.com/jeeps/tech/re ... ist/#basic

[Peter Robinson]

It is very encouraging to hear of the long expected life of the Born Free power train. We have just 39,400 miles so it may outlast us. We just go with the Ford book and use 5-20W synthetic blend changing oil and filter every 3000 miles. Possibly more often than is needed. I was surprised to find out shortly after we bought the unit that there were a number of lube points on the chassis front end so I always tell Jiffy lube and that our 2005 five speed tx requires Ford Mercon "SP" fluid or equivalent (of which I know of none) at any tx fluid change. Our BFT had a tx flush and fluid change at 30,000. It's hard to know what is really necessary with all the commericial marketing going on so I just go by the book.

[bill crommett]

How do you oil changers every 10,000 miles or once a year justify the fact that dirty oil does not belong in an engine, synthetic or otherwise ?

[John S.]

Well, I broke 30K this week on the odometer. It has been a slow steady climb and I have used the unit every month but two since I owned it. Those two were because the snow drifts and snow on the ground blocked the garage.

[karls]

How do you oil changers every 10,000 miles or once a year justify the fact that dirty oil does not belong in an engine, synthetic or otherwise ?

Bill, I "bought" the sales pitch of my buddy who sells it. See http://www.ultimatesyntheticoil.com/Sca ... eptics.htm for a thorough discussion. Also, Google Amsoil and you'll get more than enough info to form an opinion. Here is another excellent source: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

I can say that at the 5000 mile mark Amsoil is not as "dirty" looking as regular oil. It's not black. I believe the explanation is that synthetics don't oxidize like regular oil, thus no black carbon particles.

If I'm not mistaken, synthetics are not simply altered out-of-the-ground oil, but rather oil that is formed from ethynol or other hydro carbons with new and more robust molecular structures.

Another reason I use Amsoil is that it still incorporates phosphorous/zinc that the major brands have been forced to eliminate for EPA reasons. My 1972 Citroen DS needs this for proper valve tappet lubrication. Modern engines don't need it.

Used as directed, Amsoil is cheaper than regular oil due to fewer oil changes. And less hassle for those of us that change our own oil.