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PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 4:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 10:55 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Burlington, WA
I have a RB24 with the original TV located on the right side right in front of the fridge. I intend to remove the old TV and replace with a digital 22-inch flat screen. I have read all the archives on this web site on this subject, but still have a few questions...
Although the new TV weighs less then 8 pounds, I am atill a little nervous about using three wood screws to attach it and the full motion arm to the wall. Has anyone experienced problems with using only wood screws?
Has anyone pulled the fridge and installed bolts and nuts? How is this done?
How do you immobilize the full-motion arm when driving the Born Free?
Any other advice?

Thank you,
Nathan


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 5:22 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 18, 2008 10:19 pm
Posts: 125
Location: Limington, ME
Hi Nathan...

I had the same concerns you have. I also had no idea how to remove the refrigerator. I would have liked to use a backing plate but it just seemed like too much work. Instead, I use the largest wood screws that would fit through the mounting holes on the arm.

The arm I used has adjustable tension at the pivot points. When traveling, I use the supplied Allen wrench to snug them up and prevent the TV from extending during a hard stop.

Subsequent to my installation another problem has surfaced with certain TV sets. It seems that the back, where the arm is mounted, is not robust enough to survive the TV being bounced around. I put something under the front of the TV to take the weight off the arm.

Knock on wood, I haven't had any problem since installation.

Good luck, Roger

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 5:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 10:55 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Burlington, WA
Thanks for the quick reply, Roger.

I saw that you use some wedges to support your unit during travel. Sounds like a smart thing to do. Where did you find the wedges?

Nathan


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 5:58 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 18, 2008 10:19 pm
Posts: 125
Location: Limington, ME
It wasn't me with the wedges, Nathan. I just used some styrofoam. I agree
the wedges sound like a good idea and will try to find some for the upcoming season.

Regards, Roger

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1999 24RB


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2011 9:45 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 11, 2008 10:10 pm
Posts: 43
Location: Hendersonville, North Carolina
Let me make a suggestion about mounting the arm bracket. Make a 1/4" wood base plate and mount it to the side of wall and then mount the arm on top of the base plate so that the screws go through the base plate and the wall. That will, in essence, give you 7 (or more, depending on how many screws you use to mount the base plate) holding the TV to the wall and have the three screws on the mount going through more wood.

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Don Miller
2008 27RB
Mini Cooper Toad


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2011 3:58 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 9:15 am
Posts: 427
Location: New Hope, MN
My old LCD TV was mounted to the refrigerator wall with bolts that went through the plywood into T-Nuts on the back side. T-Nuts have a flange with prongs that drive into the wood to hold them in place. Of course when I removed the bolts one of the nuts worked loose and fell down beside the frig. The frig comes out fairly easy.

First shut off the propane.

On the back side disconnect the gas line from the frig.

Unplug the A.C. cord.

Make note of where the D.C. wires connect then disconnect those.

Remove the row of screws along the bottom edge of the frig.

On the front of the frig there are screws on the top and bottom flanges. Remove these and the frig should slide out. I slid mine out onto a sturdy plastic tote box.

After going through all that I decided not to bolt my new TV to the wall. I made a bracket that I bolted to the bottom of the cupboard, then bolted the old bracket to it. My new TV is an LG 26" LCD with LED backlight. It has a metal back. Almost all my camping is primitive camping with some of them on fairly rough roads.

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Tom
2005 24' RB
Towing 1978 VW Bug convertible
New Hope, MN


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2011 3:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 10:55 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Burlington, WA
Don,
Thanks for the great idea. :D I'll do it for sure. I'll buy a piece of 1/4 X 6-inch oak at Home Depot and try to match the light oak finish.

Also, I would like comments from anyone about an idea about immobilizing the TV during travel and taking weight off the mounting screws. I am thinking about using two straps, or bungies running vertically from above the TV to anchors on the wall behind and under it. Anybody tried anything like this? Hope it wouldn't be too ugly.
Nathan


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2011 4:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 10:55 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Burlington, WA
Tom,
Thanks for the ideas and especially how to pull the fridge. I think I'll go with the 1/4 inch base as Don suggested using large (and short) wood screws.
Boy, the help all you guys gave me is a great help. We have a great club!
Nathan


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2011 5:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 30, 2006 1:38 pm
Posts: 595
Location: Monroe, NJ
Nathan;

I have my Tv on an articulating arm. I attached a velcro strap with a buckle to the inside of the cabinet right by the hole where the power cord and coax feed thru. I then feed the strap through the hole, up and around the mounting arm, back through the hole and into the buckle where I can pull it tightly against the cabinet. I also put a few of the foam type circles for under chair legs in spots where the arm might rub against the cabinet to stop any squeeks and wear. It's been on there for 3 years and working good.

The strap I use is similiar to this; http://www.coilnwrap.com/awning/grommetstrap.htm

John

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John and Maureen O'Brien
and our 2 German Shepherds
2006 RSB - sold
2008 Jeep Wrangler X


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 Post subject: 12-volt hdtv
PostPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2011 8:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 10:55 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Burlington, WA
Sam...
Have you checked this Amazon website?
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss? ... lt+dc+hdtv

Nathan


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2011 8:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 10:55 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Burlington, WA
Hi John...
The good information continues to flow. Thanks for the ideas. I had not thought about Velcro straps and the chair pads to avoid wear and noise.
Nathan


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 6:34 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 9:15 am
Posts: 427
Location: New Hope, MN
Vizio has a couple models that run on 12 volt.

19" VM190XVT
23" VM230XVT

The specs don't mention running on 12 volt, but I met a couple that had the 23" model installed in their RV and they had it connected directly to 12 volt.

Here's a couple links:

http://www.amazon.com/VIZIO-VM190XVT-19 ... 195&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/VIZIO-VM230XVT-23 ... 296&sr=1-1

Both sets are LED backlit so current draw is low.

Check the customer reviews. Some common complaints are the glossy screen and poor audio.

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Tom
2005 24' RB
Towing 1978 VW Bug convertible
New Hope, MN


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 11:32 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 18, 2008 10:19 pm
Posts: 125
Location: Limington, ME
You might also want to consider one that has a built-in DVD player.

Roger

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1999 24RB


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 2:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 8:05 pm
Posts: 2006
Location: Spencer, IA
Connecting those LCD TVs directly to 12 vdc power from the coach DC power may or may not work properly. The reason for a possible problem is that the 12 vdc power from the coach is not regulated at all, varying all the way from as high as 14.4 vdc down to as low as 10.5 vdc. This wide variation due to whether the coach batteries are being rapidly charged or if they are nearly fully discharged. The AC power adapter that comes with the TV, at least in some units, puts out a regulated 12.0 vdc which may be regulated as tightly as a minimum of 11.8 vdc and a maximum of 12.2 vdc. Those limits are much tighter than the coach's unregulated DC power.

If you select a LCD TV that requires a tightly regulated source ol 12.0 vdc, it may operate only intermittently when the DC voltage happens to be in the correct voltage range. The worst that could happen is electrical damage to the TV when the applied voltage was too high.

Before buying a LCD TV that will operate from 12 vdc power, make sure that it does not require a regulated 12.0 vdc power source.

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Bill Hemme - Spencer, Iowa
E-mail: whemme@earthlink.net
2002 Born Free (Ford E-450 V10) 26' RSB
2016 VW Golf GTI - toad


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:13 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 9:15 am
Posts: 427
Location: New Hope, MN
Bill

Good point. Vizio doesn't post the specs for the DC voltage. The couple that I mentioned have a home-brewed battery charger they built using a transformer from a welder and diodes from an alternator. It's capable of pumping out 100 amps to their system. Their TV is hooked to the 12 volt without any regulation. When charging, the voltage will go as high as 16 volts. They've had the TV about 2 months and so far it's functioned fine. The best scenario would be to use a DC to DC converter. I have an LG TV that runs on 24 vdc and opted to install a 12 volt to 24 volt converter.

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Tom
2005 24' RB
Towing 1978 VW Bug convertible
New Hope, MN


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