My 2011 tends to wonder at Freeway Speeds
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My 2011 tends to wonder at Freeway Speeds
Only has 4000 miles.
But I notice driving 60-65, tends to wonder.
Has the E350 chassis.
65 front 75 psi back.
Any suggestions?
On a 3000 miles trip. Just purchased/ newbie.
But I notice driving 60-65, tends to wonder.
Has the E350 chassis.
65 front 75 psi back.
Any suggestions?
On a 3000 miles trip. Just purchased/ newbie.
Steve
2011 Born Free 22 foot RSK, rear side (corner) kitchen, E350, 29k miles.
Our first motorhome. Lots to learn. Thanks.
CA/OR border
2011 Born Free 22 foot RSK, rear side (corner) kitchen, E350, 29k miles.
Our first motorhome. Lots to learn. Thanks.
CA/OR border
My mechanic checked the alignment and thinks it's a Ford chassis issue. After the initial weirdness , I have learned to live with the quirky handling of my 2000 24RB and get re-accustomed to it after the first 20-30 miles. I did find some improvement by decreasing the air bag pressure to 25psi from the recommended 50-55.
Just an amusing note: When I bought it in AZ all of my driving was in rather high winds [all the way to WA] and I assumed the handling was wind-related. That was part of it but not the whole story.
Just an amusing note: When I bought it in AZ all of my driving was in rather high winds [all the way to WA] and I assumed the handling was wind-related. That was part of it but not the whole story.
Over the years have read all the posts concerning handling issues and consider myself lucky, we have a 2008 BFT C/O on which I have installed a front steering stabilizer and a rear sway bar and banks power pack, other than that it is stock and handles great. Of course strong cross winds create a problem but other than that no problem with road wander. Normally push the speed limit 60-65, sometimes 70, rarely above that. Unit is approaching 60K and on second set of Michelins which I rotate every 5K, and original shocks. Would like to have rear springs reworked to eliminate banging but that only occurs for most part on the bad in town roads. In my opinion, handling could be improved with the addition of rack & pinion steering, definitely not necessary for normal E350 application but would be nice for the RV application.
In summary, very satisfied with our BFT C/O but it is not a 22RSK, could your road wander be attributable to the weight distribution BFT C/O vs. 22RSK? Seems to me the weight distribution on this model would be more on tail end vs. BFT C/O. So start working thru variables, with normal load weigh RV at each corner to verify presents off above assumption, have steering box checked to specs., proper tire inflation, consider adding front steering stabilizer, watch front tires for abnormal tire wear and if noticed have alignment checked with reputable alignment shop equipped to handle the heavy stuff. Pulling in either direction and abnormal tire wear most common symptoms of poor alignment. Also own 1988 E150 work van, at 160,000, only aligned front end once and then probably wasn't necessary but I was of the old school that when you replaced tires you also did an alignment, not necessary if your old tires were wearing evenly and vehicle is going straight down the road.
In summary, very satisfied with our BFT C/O but it is not a 22RSK, could your road wander be attributable to the weight distribution BFT C/O vs. 22RSK? Seems to me the weight distribution on this model would be more on tail end vs. BFT C/O. So start working thru variables, with normal load weigh RV at each corner to verify presents off above assumption, have steering box checked to specs., proper tire inflation, consider adding front steering stabilizer, watch front tires for abnormal tire wear and if noticed have alignment checked with reputable alignment shop equipped to handle the heavy stuff. Pulling in either direction and abnormal tire wear most common symptoms of poor alignment. Also own 1988 E150 work van, at 160,000, only aligned front end once and then probably wasn't necessary but I was of the old school that when you replaced tires you also did an alignment, not necessary if your old tires were wearing evenly and vehicle is going straight down the road.
Before buying steering stabliizers and larger diameter sway bars make sure first that you E350 or E450 chassis has a proper front end alignment. Two alignment specs that if wrong can cause mild to severe steering wander. Those two items are toe in and caster. If toe in is actually set to toe out rather than in, your coach will wander. Toe in should be set to approximately 1/8". The other is caster. The Ford Spec for front end CASTER is:
LH +1.3 to +6.8 Degrees
RH +1.8 to +7.3 Degrees
It is best to have caster set to near the high end of this spec. Having the caster set to around 5 degrees will make a dramatic improvement in steering stability, sensitivity to cross winds and when meeting or passing large trucks.
The Ford E350 and E450 chassis was delivered from the factory with only the toe in adjustable. Camber and caster are fixed and the only way to adjust those two were either to bend the twin I-beam suspension arms or best to have your alignment shop install what are generally called adjustable camber/caster bushings to replace the factory fixed ones. Any light truck alignment shop worth its salt knows about and stocks these adjustable bushings. From my research on other RV forums one source of these bushings is the Ingalls Engineering P/N 59400 a photo of which is provided below.
Have the alignment tech set the toe-in to 1/8" and the caster set to around +5 degrees - about 0.5 degree higher on the right side vs the left side to compensate for the crown of the road.
Then see how your coach handles. The improvement may be rather startling and you may not need to buy a steering stabilizer or sway bars.
Any alignment experts on this forum that have better information please post it.
LH +1.3 to +6.8 Degrees
RH +1.8 to +7.3 Degrees
It is best to have caster set to near the high end of this spec. Having the caster set to around 5 degrees will make a dramatic improvement in steering stability, sensitivity to cross winds and when meeting or passing large trucks.
The Ford E350 and E450 chassis was delivered from the factory with only the toe in adjustable. Camber and caster are fixed and the only way to adjust those two were either to bend the twin I-beam suspension arms or best to have your alignment shop install what are generally called adjustable camber/caster bushings to replace the factory fixed ones. Any light truck alignment shop worth its salt knows about and stocks these adjustable bushings. From my research on other RV forums one source of these bushings is the Ingalls Engineering P/N 59400 a photo of which is provided below.
Have the alignment tech set the toe-in to 1/8" and the caster set to around +5 degrees - about 0.5 degree higher on the right side vs the left side to compensate for the crown of the road.
Then see how your coach handles. The improvement may be rather startling and you may not need to buy a steering stabilizer or sway bars.
Any alignment experts on this forum that have better information please post it.
- Attachments
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- Ingalls PN 59400 Bushing.jpg (9.73 KiB) Viewed 8016 times
Last edited by whemme on Tue Aug 14, 2012 4:24 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Bill Hemme - Spencer, Iowa
E-mail: whemme@earthlink.net
2002 Born Free (Ford E-450 V10) 26' RSB
2016 VW Golf GTI - toad
E-mail: whemme@earthlink.net
2002 Born Free (Ford E-450 V10) 26' RSB
2016 VW Golf GTI - toad
steering
Steve. We have a 2007 24RB on a 450 chassis. When we took delivery in 2007 it was immediatly apparent that the front end had problems - it would not track and steering it down the interstate was a white knuckle affair. I took it to a Ford dealer who put it on the rack and said everything was fine and it was within Ford tolerances. I then took it to a nationwide tire dealer who put it on the rack and told me the same thing. I subsequently took it to a front end shop which specialized in large trucks & rvs. They also told me that everything was within Ford specified tolerances. They then tightened the tolerances adding shims and adjusting various parts(I am not a mechanic). That helped a bit but did not do the trick. They then put on a rear stabilizyer bar which did not help so that was removed. They then put on a Safe-T-Steer front end stabilizer bar and bingo - we were in business.
As Bill says, there have been a number of posts on this subject so I would carefully pursue the various solutions.
As Bill says, there have been a number of posts on this subject so I would carefully pursue the various solutions.
Steve & Sue Wolfe / Born Free 24RB / toad
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- Posts: 145
- Joined: Wed Jun 17, 2009 9:41 am
My 2011 tends to wander at highway speeds.
Steve, As I recollect the owner's manual says after some initial milage to have an alignment check. I too thought my 2010 RSK tended to wander. Either it was corrected when I had the alignment checked or I got over it. I don't remember which. (The mind is a terrible thing to lose).
Charles / Cape Canaveral, Florida 2013 23FL
shocks
Heavier duty shocks is all I have done and they "seems to me" to have made a big difference in handling. The coach really handles pretty good.
Believe it was Bilstein shocks.
I go with the 65 psi in the from and around 75 in the rears.
I also check the rear air bags before each trip. They seem to make a difference I think I run about 55 psi in those.
Richard
Believe it was Bilstein shocks.
I go with the 65 psi in the from and around 75 in the rears.
I also check the rear air bags before each trip. They seem to make a difference I think I run about 55 psi in those.
Richard
- Mike Jean Bandfield
- Posts: 513
- Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2005 3:43 pm
This is normal for a Ford chassis. I would characterize the Ford's steering as feeling like it has a little too much play in the steering wheel. It feels almost like there is about a 1/2" of slop in the steering wheel where it is applying neither right or left pressure and it wanders slightly requiring you to move the wheel back and forth more than normal. However, when you check the adjustment it is fine. Where we have trouble is finding the terminology that defines slop and it's acceptable limits. So the amount of sway is subjective and can be exacerbated by tire pressures, air bags, alignment and loading.
Too much weight behind the rear axle can lift the front end and reduced the traction of the front tires. Less grip can also contribute to a mushy feeling and less response. The heavy rear end can also contribute lateral forces that affect wandering. Weigh your unit often - both axles- and pay attention to your loading habits and how they contribute to axle weight. Consult the weight charts for both your vehicle's axle capacities and the loading and tire pressure charts for your vehicle.
I don't like it however I've simply gotten used to the Ford handling. Initially it's scary; after awhile you begin to accept it and you realize you really do have sufficient control.
OBTW! It bears repeating:
There is LOTS more information available on this and other forums about loading and tire pressures. For your RV this is VERY different from what you are used to doing on your car. For your RV, tire pressure and proper axle loading are even more critical to your safety and the safety of those sharing the road with you. If you are uncomfortable making sense out of all the info here - by all means - ask questions!
Mike
Too much weight behind the rear axle can lift the front end and reduced the traction of the front tires. Less grip can also contribute to a mushy feeling and less response. The heavy rear end can also contribute lateral forces that affect wandering. Weigh your unit often - both axles- and pay attention to your loading habits and how they contribute to axle weight. Consult the weight charts for both your vehicle's axle capacities and the loading and tire pressure charts for your vehicle.
I don't like it however I've simply gotten used to the Ford handling. Initially it's scary; after awhile you begin to accept it and you realize you really do have sufficient control.
OBTW! It bears repeating:
There is LOTS more information available on this and other forums about loading and tire pressures. For your RV this is VERY different from what you are used to doing on your car. For your RV, tire pressure and proper axle loading are even more critical to your safety and the safety of those sharing the road with you. If you are uncomfortable making sense out of all the info here - by all means - ask questions!
Mike
Mike & Jean
2005 26' RSS Diesel
2005 26' RSS Diesel