Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 7:53 pm
I LOVE the bunk beds. That was an option?
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https://bornfreervclub.org/bulletin_board/viewtopic.php?t=3649
Which one is the largest? Is it able to accomodate an adult 6'3/210 lbs?Dallas Baillio wrote:For information there was a period of time when BF offered three sizes of beds in the 26 rear bed model. Twin, 3/4 and full. In Dude's photo that may be a 3/4 bed.
Probably by yourself, but it's still going to be as short as a twin, so you will have to lay at a bit of an angle if you want to stretch out. The cabover is where it's at unfortunately for guys our size. It's really not bad though. Headroom is pretty tight once you get towards the front of the cab, but it's quite large and lengthy otherwise.pglover19 wrote:Which one is the largest? Is it able to accomodate an adult 6'3/210 lbs?Dallas Baillio wrote:For information there was a period of time when BF offered three sizes of beds in the 26 rear bed model. Twin, 3/4 and full. In Dude's photo that may be a 3/4 bed.
Don't know about diesels, but I have heard that emission system warranty, which is fairly long, maybe 10 years, has come into play with rust in gasoline tanks. IMO rusting gas tanks are not rare on Ford E series. Store them full!Sam Ryan wrote:There's an entire thread I authored about the rusted out fuel tank in late 2008 here on-forum.The Libals wrote:How did your fuel tank rust out?? That's definitely a first that I've seen. Makes me worry about my 40 gallon tank...
If Ford knew why, they weren't saying. One possibility is that something may have been left partially unscrewed or open, if you will, on the top side of the tank, thereby allowing atmosphere and even water in. Another possibility is defective coating or material(s) used in some fuel tanks used. It was a rare occurence, but not the only one known to Ford.
The Libals,The Libals wrote:Just this weekend, I forgot that my charger/converter is on the fritz and it fried for the second time my Dinosaur board on my Dometic fridge. So now I'm looking at a 200+ dollar charger/converter and a 100 dollar Dinosaur board and my fridge will only run on gas in the meantime.
What I meant is that every Ford van comes in as a cab and chassis and gets a coach built onto it, yes? Then they have to add everything to it to make it all work. To my knowledge, a regular Ford E350 van does not have a 40 gallon box underneath it for fuel, the same way my Grandpa's old 36' Dolphin Class A running on a Ford chassis with a 460 didn't come with a 110 gallon fuel tank from Ford. The manufacturer of the Dolphin coach put that in when they built it. That's all I was thinking is that Born Free may not utilize the factory Ford tank when building the coach because it may not work with the configuration. Of course the powerplants are the same, in my case a Factory 7.3L Turbo IDI w/ an E4OD and a Dana 70 rear. I hope I've clarified what I meant to say. Sorry about that..Sam Ryan wrote:What??????The Libals wrote:See I always figured that coaches came with their own custom tanks based on the configuration of the coach. Mine looks like a big box underneath the coach, where my pickup tanks looked completely different. What I see under there is a ton of room to double the size of my tank. I'd love to have an 80 or 100 gallon tank under there though!
I'm puzzled by this post....?
Do you have any examples Born Free has used, utilizing; "own custom tanks based on the configuration of the coach?"
My 2002 Born Free 24' RB coach was built on the E450 Ford SuperDuty truck chassis, with the 7.3 liter PowerStroke diesel as it's powerplant.
To my knowledge, there is no difference in; "configuration of coach." EVERY Born Free coach configuration utilized the identical engine powerplants......in my coach's case, the 7.3 liter PowerStroke diesel.
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What my charger/converter is doing is pushing about 7VAC creep onto my 12VDC line, causing my Voltage spread on the DC to change to about 19VDC+ and 5VDC-. I forgot last weekend to make sure I shut my fridge off for a couple hours when I want to charge the batteries because I haven't bought a new converter yet and sure enough, it fried the relay that controls the electric heating element. It's a different circuit path for the gas solenoid, so that continues to work, although the solenoid will chatter like mad when the gas turns on if this POS converter of mine is running. It's a simple fix of a new C/C. I just need to buy it...And it cost me an extra hundred bucks because I haven't done it yet...whemme wrote:The Libals,The Libals wrote:Just this weekend, I forgot that my charger/converter is on the fritz and it fried for the second time my Dinosaur board on my Dometic fridge. So now I'm looking at a 200+ dollar charger/converter and a 100 dollar Dinosaur board and my fridge will only run on gas in the meantime.
Your charger/converter converts 120 vac to 12 vdc. That 12 vdc is used to power the control circuitry in your Dometic fridge whether you are using 120 VAC to run your fridge or whether you are using propane to run you fridge. What I am saying is that if you fridge's 12 vdc control circuits were damaged by a defective charger/converter, then your fridge would suffer the same operational problems when being run from either 120 VAC or propane.