Leak!

Post your general and technical information, questions or responses in this forum. Viewing messages is open to all with no registration or log-in required. Prior to posting a new message or a response to an existing message, registration or login is required. Please do not post FOR SALE or WANTED ads in this section!

Moderator: bfadmin

baxmd
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2013 3:13 pm

Leak!

Post by baxmd »

We bought our 2005 24 RB coach a year and a half ago. Because of family illness we've not used it except to move it from from Tx, where the owner from New Mexico met us, to our home in Maryland. We're excited and ready to hit the road after quite a delay finding tires. Yesterday, we found wet moldy carpet in the corner right behind the drivers seat. Ugh. Tore up the carpet and working on getting that cleaned up. Started to investigate the cause of the leak. I've attached a pix of the overcab roof of what we think is likely the cause; is this a job for eternabond? The rear roof seam by the ladder is showing the same issue. The area was intact when we winterized. Trying to get on the road Tuesday, so any step by step suggestions would be greatly appreciated.....being newbies w/ minimal skills and limited RV terminology, we've relied on the library and the wisdom of fellow Lions for many months. ~Tom and Paula
Attachments
IMG_3515.resize.jpg
IMG_3515.resize.jpg (54.71 KiB) Viewed 17178 times
Tom and Paula
2005 24RB
mockturtle

Post by mockturtle »

I wouldn't rule out the cabover window. You can't necessarily see any evidence of leaking inside the fiberglass. I had a window leak and there was no evidence of it on the interior wall material and it can leak out under the driver's seat or elsewhere.
jeleuen
Posts: 102
Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 8:29 pm

Post by jeleuen »

Leaks require detective work and can be very perplexing. My carpet between the driver and copilot seats was also soaked. We have had a lot of rain and wind. At first, I suspected a vertical body seam behind the driver seat. But after raising the sofa and tracing the water stains on the sofa base, the cause was a leaky cargo door behind the driver seat which gives access to under the sofa. Total caulking of the door fixed the issue. One needs to feel along all the body seams to find dampness. If the leak was high, there should be stains or wetness evident. Anyway, good luck.
The more the government provides, the more it is our Master.
baxmd
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2013 3:13 pm

Post by baxmd »

Thanks for the ideas and encouragement. We'll continue investigating tomorrow. We'll know better next winter - besides running the generator, check everywhere for leaks! We had lots of snow for MD this year, with plenty of thaw and refreeze. That may be the issue, but then again we've had several periods of 3+ inches of rain recently.

Besides checking the window and the seal around the generator compartment, we'll caulk the screws as suggested. Is there a special name for the trim that's damaged and is replacing it a DYI project?

~Tom and Paula
Tom and Paula
2005 24RB
daryl&mary
Posts: 41
Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2011 7:12 pm

Post by daryl&mary »

Here is another possible source that we discovered in our 2006 BFT- the connection for the external water hose.

After a day with the hose connected with water under pressure, we noted dampness in the carpet under the bed on the driver's side. Further checking showed water pooling in the bottom of the water/external-shower compartment. Not sure if it was running down the wall inside, or if the internal water connection was leaking. Our short term "fix" has been to not use the external water except to fill the water tank, and then draw water from the tank as needed. So far no more damp carpet.

So check this out too - maybe you will get lucky like we did.
Daryl & Mary
2006 BFT
baxmd
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2013 3:13 pm

Post by baxmd »

Thanks, Daryl and Mary. I just checked and that doesn't seem to be the issue. Thanks for the tip, though.

Mockturtle, did you just silicon caulk around the window? I don't see any evidence that is the issue, but you get the impression that you didn't either.

Sam, I assume you removed all of the flexible molding to get to the screws. Was that simply a "tear it out" job or is there a way to do it that allows you to re-use it? I don't see any easy way to pull it out of the channel. If it can't be re-used, did you replace it with a similar product? Source? Obviously, we're learning as we go as fellow Lions have said would happen. A few easy lessons would be a nice break after this one...... :wink: Still hoping, perhaps unrealistically, to get out of here Tuesday.
Tom and Paula
2005 24RB
baxmd
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2013 3:13 pm

Post by baxmd »

Oops, it should read, "I don't see any evidence that is the issue, but get the impression that you didn't either."
Tom and Paula
2005 24RB
mockturtle

Post by mockturtle »

The cabover window leak in my coach a couple of years ago did not show at all but there was water under the dash on the driver's side. I had a service shop caulk the windows just to be sure. However, the leak continued and I took it to a better [more expensive] shop who determined that the cabover window was leaking, took the window out and re-sealed it. They had to use what they called an 'industrial grade' seal and tested it thoroughly. After paying $1500 for the fix, I will happily report that, through all the rain, wind and storms we have here, there has been no leaking since.

The service tech said that the low angle of the cabover windows make it more susceptible to leaks.
bigdipper
Posts: 353
Joined: Thu May 27, 2010 3:13 pm

Post by bigdipper »

Per above comments sources of water leaks are various and sundry and frustrating. Another option would to find somebody who will pressurize interior, add "smoke" and watch for leaks from outside. Kim at he factory supports this approach. Anyway best of luck in finding leak source. My personal experience is to go over each and every seam and opening to coach every couple of years and caulk, caulk, caulk with DAP silicone.
Good luck,
Ralph
Ralph
2011 24RB
Former 2001 23RK
mockturtle

Post by mockturtle »

I also removed the plastic trim and replaced rusty screws with stainless steel and put clear sealant under the screws. I bought a roll of the plastic trim. It is flexible but is easier to work with in warm weather.
jeleuen
Posts: 102
Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 8:29 pm

Leak

Post by jeleuen »

There is another method to discover location of the leak. Simply run a hose over the nearest body seam, starting low and working up. One seam at a time allows excluding those that don't leak. Allow time for the water to find its way to the floor before you start testing another seam. In addition to the body seams, of course, window and access covers above the floor line might need checking. If only the carpet was wet, and you could feel no dampness on the inside fabric wall covering at the seams, your leak source could be low but still above the floor level. Good luck.
The more the government provides, the more it is our Master.
User avatar
Mike Astley
Posts: 171
Joined: Sun Sep 10, 2006 10:40 pm

Post by Mike Astley »

Leaks are the bane of the RV experience and as you can tell from the replies can be difficult at times to resolve. I've fought/been fighting several this year.

My adder to the discussion is to look very closely at any suspected area that may be causing the leak. Hairline cracks in caulking have often been the source for leaks for me. To see them I have to practically get my nose down near to the caulk.

Also, to take a time to just look at each and everything that penetrates the roof. I'm not sure why but sometimes I just don't "see" things at first such as a cracked light base or the seam around a window looking different at one point.

Patience, observation, and if something doesn't look right: caulk it! :)
1999 26RSB
Fort Collins, CO
baxmd
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2013 3:13 pm

Post by baxmd »

Well, we'll be delaying the trip by a day, but we think it's fixed. One more overnight for the caulk to dry and we'll check one more time (hopefully...). Some of the screws on the vertical seam behind the driver's side were rusted almost all the way through. New carpet and trim is cut and ready to install for a temporary fix. The damaged table unit will not be making the trip. Perhaps the local Amish can replace the damaged side pieces later.

We do have overhead cab windows on the sides, but no evidence points to that as our source this time. We will keep everyone's helpful comments in mind for the future. Your experiences have taught us that we'll have plenty of opportunities for more detective work in our future.

Time for a well deserved beer,
Tom and Paula
Tom and Paula
2005 24RB
User avatar
stevek
Posts: 1184
Joined: Wed Mar 14, 2012 5:33 pm

Post by stevek »

If I had a leak, I would figure out some way to pressurize the interior.
And use soapy water.

Something like this.
http://www.class-c-motorhome-info-made- ... _test.html

I have a couple of squirrel cage fans laying around, so would probably use one of them for a source of air.
Steve
2011 Born Free 22 foot RSK, rear side (corner) kitchen, E350, 29k miles.
Our first motorhome. Lots to learn. Thanks.
CA/OR border
WardPAW
Posts: 76
Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2014 10:03 pm

Post by WardPAW »

We had a similar leak on our 2005 26 RSB. After a visit to the factory last October, Bill, the service technician, advised of the following. The design of the nose cone has the side of the cone going behind the side wall above the window. (The design has been changed to eliminate the horizontal seam.) Over time the sealant between the cone and sidewall separated.

I removed the seam metal strip, cleaned between the two pieces and placed silicone sealant between the two pieces. Re-assembled the seam using stainless steel screws, making sure that each screw hole had sealant in it before inserting the screw. Put new insert trim into the metal bracket. The water leak has not returned.

Being a previous boat owner, I used 3M Marine Sealant Silicone, part no. 08027. Good product, just needs 24 hours to fully cure. I purchased this product at West Marine. If I don't use the entire tube, I store in the refrigerator to preserve the remainder.

The insert trim is RV Designer-Heavy Duty Insert Trim, part no. E461 (100 ft), bar code 0132098461. I purchased this at Camping World.

I hope you can find your leak.

Ben
Ben Ward
2005 26 RSB, Diesel
RV Name: Lion PAW
Post Reply

Return to “General and Technical Information, Questions, and Responses”