Born Free Leap'n Lions RV Club Info & Discussion Forum

Just got back from a trip...Here is my scenario.
Dry camping for a week.
No over the air TV/ poor Radio.
I like to play the Satellite Radio a lot and worry about running starting battery down and MAINTAINING starting battery..
Do not want to run GEN at all, due to NOISE and bothering fellow campers.

I have a portable 200 watt solar panel that I hook directly up to the house batteries, to keep house batts charged.

I guess my best bet is to get the AMP-L-START to maintain the starting battery. The one that Mel recommends.

Any other ideals?
Thanks..

Steve,

You can use a switched relay to power your cab radio from the coach batteries.

We upgraded our cab in-dash radio and 4 speakers and use it as our camp radio. We also use it as an iPod player and it has an aux input that we use for TV sound when desired. To keep from running down the chassis batteries (diesels have 2) we power the radio from the coach batteries. Our setup simply adds a power source to the cab radio's switched power source. It is controlled by a small rocker switch and a Bosch-type relay. The default off-mode of the relay passes the ignition-switched engine power to the radio as normal when driving. When the rocker switch is turned on, the coach power feeds the radio. In the photo, the top-right switch turns on the radio to be powered from the coach (the middle and lower switches have other purposes). The volt meter in the photo is on the power lead to the radio. I use it to monitor both the coach voltage and the chassis voltage (depending on what is powering the radio).

Chuck

Chuck

Thanks, that is a very clean and good looking install, I have seen the switches, in fact may have a couple - where did you get the volt meter? .

I am guessing from this you have allot of other great add on's - please post.

What re the other switches for?

Thanks, Ray

Thanks Chuck, good idea.
I will consider that option.
I have seen those digital voltmeters on Ebay.
Under $10 shipped from China.
Guess those are the same?

Below are links to the parts mentioned: voltmeter, switches, relays, and aux wire for TV sound. The voltmeter was well made but inexpensive. In the photo from my previous post, the middle switch powers the rear camera and CB radio from the coach batteries the same way the top switch powers the in-dash radio. The bottom switch is used in programming the car alarm. I wanted a key-fob remote to unlock the front doors and ended up installing a car alarm.

I put in 4 new speakers and modified the cabinet speaker enclosures to handle the bass of a good speaker. The open back allows full response of the speaker and turns the overhead cabinets into speaker enclosures. No storage space is lost in the cabinet—we just pile stuff on top of the speaker as before. To prevent rattles, the screen was sandwiched between the top and sides, nailed back into place, and Elmer's glued to fill the screen voids over several days—2 or 3 coats of glue. I wrapped the edges with masking tape to hold in the glue and totally filled the screen voids. During install, a wad of foam was placed between the screen and speaker magnet. I filled the 4 screw holes with glue when installing the enclosures and allowed it to dry 24 hours before playing the radio. I also added a foam gasket between the original brown speaker grill and the bottom of the cabinet. The result is rattle-free and sounds good.

When camping with neighbors, I turn the fader to the rear speakers to keep the sound contained inside the coach (the front doors have no speaker insulation and will radiate sound well beyond the coach). We no longer travel with a portable box radio and can crank the sound at tailgate events—all without fear of running down the chassis battery.

LCD Digital Volt Voltage Panel Meter Voltmeter 7.5V-20V
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UWD2J4

10PC Car Truck Rocker Toggle LED Switch Red Light On-Off Control
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007B856YY

5 Pack 30/40 AMP Relay Harness Spdt 12V Bosch Style
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ELF77E

Mediabridge 3.5mm Male to 2-Male RCA Adapter (25 Feet)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YEFLGQ
This 25' wire is hidden and runs from the TV in our 24RB to the AUX input on our radio (Pioneer FH-X700BT).

Kenwood KFC-C6894PS 6 x 8 Inches 3-Way Performance Series Speaker
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079NZEZM

Chuck

Very impressive sound engineering. Rattle free indeed and a good resonance for the bass sounds. I assume that your TV audio goes to the same speakers. Congrats!

Nice job Chuck. I like your switches. Cheap and they look good.

If all you need to do is switch between chassis and coach power for the radio, a simpler approach would be to use a double through switch (SPDT) and not use a relay.

Thanks for all the info and links Chuck.
Good idea on the speakers.
Eventually I do want to upgrade the sound system.

So all I have to do is to splice into the radio power supply,
add the switching relay,
and the switch,
and connect it into the coach starting solenoid?

Just on the positive side?

I have been trying to get this picture as my avatar here, but no luck.
Maybe someone can help me out?
I have always had an interest in electricity since I was a kid.

At the bottom of your profile page is the "Avatar control panel" where you browse to your photo to upload. The image can be no greater than 100 x 100 pixels. The image in your message above is 150 x 130 so you will have resize it before uploading it. You can use Paint to do this.

Oliver, yes, the TV plays through the cabinet speakers using the in-dash radio. This is optional and we don't use it all the time, but it is great for watching a movie or sporting event. The in-dash radio came with a remote control so it is very convenient to use with the TV for volume control.

Tom, you are absolutely correct . . . power to the radio could be toggled with a SPDT switch making the relay unnecessary. Steve—Tom's suggestion of using a SPDT switch would be the easiest to install—especially if the switch is to be mounted in a permanent location.

I chose to use relays because of the location of my switches. The panel under the steering column is removable. Since the wires are only carrying current enough to trigger relays, I used 18 gauge wire in a harness long enough to allow the panel to be removed and laid up on the dashboard. The relays are located under the dash and have heavier gauge wires attached for minimal voltage drop.

Steve, for the second power source, I ran a wire from the 12v fuse panel in the coach up to the dash where it connects to the relay. The grounds are common so you only need the positive wire. Mine is routed under the driver's door removable plastic step plate. Since I was replacing my radio, I used the radio power wire on the factory harness side of the radio so the radio could be removed in the future if necessary. If you choose to go the relay/switch route, I'll draw and post a picture with the connections and pinouts for the relay.

Yes Chuck, please show me a wiring diagram.
Thanks for all your help.
I guess with the SPDT switch to keep it more simple for me.
Not sure about the voltmeter. I do have one, just like yours.
What you think?

The dash panel just below the steering wheel comes off of my 2011 just like yours.

Regarding resizing my Avatar, no can find Paint on my computer.
I went to Control Panel and llooked thru all the programs.
I have Windows Vista Basic.

here is the image resized with a maximum of 100 pixels a side. Just download to computer then upload to the Avatar control panel.

Bill

stevek wrote:Regarding resizing my Avatar, no can find Paint on my computer.
I went to Control Panel and llooked thru all the programs.
I have Windows Vista Basic.

I'm not familiar with Vista, but if it's similar to Win7 it's in the Accessories folder. Go to Start > All Programs > Accessories.

Or you can download a free image editor here: http://www.getpaint.net/

Steve,

I looked at an owner's manual for a 2011 E450 and it looks like there could be more than 1 circuit needed to power your radio. I have some questions for you. You'll need your owner's manual, a flashlight and a contortionist mentality to see the fuses. Which of the following positions in your fuse box have fuses?

Fuse Location —/— Fuse Amp Rating —/— Protected Circuits
#15 —/— 10A —/— Satellite radio
#39 —/— 20A —/— Radio, Navigation
#40 —/— 20A —/— Amplifier
#41 —/— 15A —/— Radio, Switch illumination, etc.

We need to determine what circuits are required to make your radio work. With the Satellite radio playing, remove and replace each of the fuses—one at a time—and note the change.
(i.e., pulled fuse #15 and Satellite radio quit; pulled fuse #39 and radio quit; pulled fuse #40 and lost some of the sound; pulled #41 and radio went dark).

My guess is that #41 is powered with the headlight switch and will not be needed. The first 3 on the list are the ones in question.

Thanks,
Chuck