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MarkB wrote:Google is only your friend when you get what you want.
So, are you suggesting now that the problem is the inlet vent hatch rather than the exhaust vent cover? Or the baffles?
And my question stands about which exhaust vent you have installed.
'06 Born Free 32 RQ Kodiak Chassis
(Former: '01 Born Free 23 RK)
Dinghy: '16 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon with a Blue Ox Aladdin tow bar.
Traveling with Sir Winston and Lady Rae (Cavalier King Charles Spaniels)
I think it is a combination. I can see the reason for the baffles. At the bottom the baffle is right at the top of the door at a right angle, if the inlet was further away from the baffle the air would have a chance to pick up velocity and go around the baffle which is it's purpose, to move air around the lower tubes that cool the fridge portion.
So what I have now done is make another baffle out of aluminum that angles up at about a 30-45 degree angle from the door, uncovering some of the lower fridge tubes but maybe gaining air movement and better fridge performance. The freezer portion has no problem.
Most instructions for installation of the fridges say to have no more than 1" gap between baffles and wall. My top was quite a bit more than 1", prob 2-3" at least. So to fix that without removing the fridge again I took some fiberglass material, made a wiener dog and wrapped that with aluminum foil taped with aluminum tape, then from the top dropped it on top of the gap so that all air will have to go through the condenser fins, I left a larger gap above the burner chimney though. With that setup, when the fans are in demand, if the condenser fans run I can turn on the upper vent fans and the condenser fan is then not required.
