power for the 30 amp

[jkeffer]

Well we are getting used to having only 30amp. Still is a pain. but no responses from anyone on if our 2007 26RSB could be changed to 50amp.
The first day we turned the air conditioner on it worked fine....(we are in Mesa until April 1). the next day it didn't keep the unit cool at all (compresser didn't come on). Called Earnhardt RV and they suggested that we weren't getting full 30 amp service. figured out that the 50 amp switch was open on the pole...now we are getting really cool.....
Bottom line: still wish this unit had 50 amp.

[shilohdad]

This won't really be about 30 amp, but about keeping your rig cool in hot weather. We have found that putting reflectix over the windows when you are in the sun in hot weather really helps. Reflectix is a sort of insulation, silvered on both sides with a honeycomb in the middle. I believe we got ours at Camping World. We have also seen it sometimes in RV dealers' supply department. We usually get it in 10' long rolls.

We cut it to size for the windows. For the big living area windows, we slip it between the shade and window. We even went a step further and cut it into pieces (taped together) so we could fold it in half if we want to slide the window open, or even just have the section by the louver uncovered. We have had limited experience so far in the Born Free with hot weather, but found this worked very well with our prior motorhome, a Roadtrek 200. The combination of reflectix and air conditioning worked really well. On one trip we were in St. Charles, MO, and the mean high temperature for 4 days straight was 102. We were able to keep the Roadtrek interior at 75.

[jkeffer]

thanks so much for the recommendation for the window insulation. We might try it.

[whemme]

Harry Keffer,

As far as I know if you are plugged into a 30 amp recepticle on the shore power pole, power for your coach is only coming thru the associated 30 amp circuit breaker. Whether the 50 amp circuit breaker in ON or OFF on the pole should not make any difference or affect the power in any way going to your coach.

Just my 2 cents worth!

[jkeffer]

well the ac didn't cool yesterday afternoon, compressor won't come on. We think that the park (Silveridge in Mesa AZ) probably couldn't send the full 30 amp as everyone around us in their park models were also running their ac. The service manager at Earnhardt said if we weren't getting the full 30 amp then the AC compressor doesn't kick on. When we turned on the generator on the coach the compressor comes on okey. So the AC is okey. Silveridge is over 20 years old....
It is going to be 92 today...we shall see.
Going home on April 1.....
Still wish we had 50 amp in the coach.
Jan Keffer

[BornFree_n_Now]

We have found the addition of a voltage booster to be helpful

~ see previous discussion:

http://www.bornfreervclub.org/bulletin_ ... ight=#2343 ~~

http://voltagebooster.com/BusConversionArticle.htm

[Trisha]

To my mind, you have to look at 2 things, that might or might not be related.

One, is that you need to know exactly what voltage you are getting at the pole. It sounds like you need a meter to measure that. Even something you can plug in and get a good reading.

Second, you need to find out if your AC compressor will work under an alternative source of power. I'mnot sure, but you are the ones having difficulty using the generator to power it also? (I'm not sure I'm not confusing 2 threads there).

You need to plug into a reliable source of 30 amp power, and turn on the AC. Actually, I've run my AC many times on 20 amp (so long as I'm not running other electrical appliances) and it's worked.

If you're having difficulty with the compressor, and you have at least 20 amps of power, it's likely the AC unit itself.

Other folks here probably know a lot more than I do, but basic rules of troubleshooting do apply. And I do know that unless you have something more than the typical 13,500 btu duotherm rooftop air, it should run on 20 amp and it WILL work on 30 amp.

I have often used my rooftop air, microwave and television at the same time. along with a few lights. Nothing blew. So to run the AC alone with 30 ams, and the compressor won't kick over, means you probably have an Air conditioner problem.

Can a person completely change out the electrical service from 30 to 50 amps? Why not? But you will need an electrician, and completely replace what you have for something else. If there's a will, and the $, there's a way. You'd end up adding circuits, not necessarily putting items that are already existing on bigger circuits. And you'd need to do a lot of wiring...a heavier guage wiring, everything. It would be work and a pain in the... but it's certainly possible.

Then it starts looking more like a class A rig. Why not look at the 32' President. Isn't that a 50 amp rig?

trisha

[bcope01]

Still wish we had 50 amp in the coach.

If that particular RV park cannot supply you with reliable 30amp service, I doubt that you'd be any better off with 50amp capability in your coach. Before you make any decisions, I suggest you get to an RV park that has good 30amp service and then make an evaluation as to whether you need more that 30amp capability in your coach.

Bill

[John S.]

I doubt that the 50 amp will make any difference. If you only have one ac unit you will be fine on 30 amps. Infact I have been in situations in older parks that have very weak power and my ems either shuts it down or I do. I have 2 motorhomes one 50 amp and one 30 amp and they are both able to be cooled on 30 amp run the fridge and lights and even a mircowave. Get a multimeter and check the voltage at the pole and in the unit. You may be suprised. Then turn on the appliances one by one and look at the drop.

[George Boley]

Greeting All,
Well lets discuss this 30 VS 50 Amp question. First there is no difference between voltage. They both (ideally) provide 124Volts to your coach circuits requiring such. The only difference , aside from the breaker (30 or 50 Amp) is the wire size providing AC power to your hookup post/box. The more things you have on in your coach, obviously, the more electricty is being drawn thru the wire. If that draw exceeds the capacity of the wire, in both size and length, you get line or friction loss, which in turn lowers the voltage flowing to your coach

So how do we correct the problem cheap but correct and safe. First we get an A/C plugin electric meter to monitor the voltage coming into your coach especially under load such as the A/C being on. So far we have spent about $16. Secondly you ask for a site as close to one the park's electric transformers (that small barrel on the pole or big box on the ground) as possible. We're still at $16. The third, but last thing will cost a little more, about $25. You buy a 50 to30 Amp adapter pig tail, this enables you to draw your needed 124 volts through the park's 50 Amp service which has much heavier wire. Pretty cheap fix, huh.-------------the George Boley way.
There is no need or advantage to rewire a coach as long as the manufacturer installed heavy enough wire to run each circuit in the begining. I think you will find Born Free has done that.
No one should feel bad, most people are confused about how voltage, amperage and wattage interact with one another and how wire size and lenght of run impacts that relationship.
Many parks try to cut down on wire size or do not increase that wire size on long runs or when putting too many hookups/sites on a run. Than when everyone puts on Their A/C down goes the available voltage to each site. One last thing, if the voltmeter you just bought registers less that 110 volts, shut off that A/C, nothing will ruin a compressor faster than low voltage.--------------Hope I have helped George B

[jkeffer]

Everyone. thank you for your excellent advise. It is 101 here and the AC is keeping us comfortable. However the neighbor in her Park Model is here today, so will see if the AC continues to cool.
We won't be back in Silveridge next year, we are building a place in Case Grande,,,hence the change from the Class A Country Coach to the Born Free. We like the smaller profile and especially the length and height. thanks again for the advise.

[jkeffer]

sorry. forgot to tell you we are in Mesa AZ until April 1.

[Roadtech]

Thanks George, your 110 volts or less warning is excellent advice. I do not understand why all 1st class motorhomes do not have a voltmeter permanently installed in plain view with a low voltage alarm light on it.

[John S.]

Thanks George, your 110 volts or less warning is excellent advice. I do not understand why all 1st class motorhomes do not have a voltmeter permanently installed in plain view with a low voltage alarm light on it.

You can get a surge guard that will shut off the power if it drops too low or goes too high. I have on on the Foretravel and will be putting one on the BFT next. The FT does have the volts coming in on both legs shown right on the panel by the fridge. I have a plug in one for the BF but I loose an outlet but have not really missed it.